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A GUIDE TO FINE JEWELLERY SETTINGS

A GUIDE TO FINE JEWELLERY SETTINGS

by My Linh Do in JOURNAL

When choosing fine jewellery, the setting is often one of the most considered, yet overlooked, details. More than simply holding a stone in place, a setting shapes how a diamond catches the light, how a piece feels when worn, and the overall character of the design.

From the open brilliance of a claw setting to the clean lines of a bezel, and RUUSK’s own Crown setting (a considered hybrid of the two), each approach offers a different expression of fine jewellery, and distinct ways to frame and celebrate a stone.

 

Claw: Let the Stone Shine

A claw setting secures a diamond or gemstone with small prongs. With less metal surrounding the stone, light can enter from multiple angles, allowing the stone’s natural brilliance to take centre stage.

There is an inherent delicacy to a claw setting. It creates the impression of a stone held lightly within the design, making it a natural choice for pieces where the beauty and character of the gemstone are intended to be the focus.

At RUUSK, claw settings are used across our fine jewellery, from solitaire rings to multi-stone rings.

 

ruusk claw set engagement rings

 

Bezel: Defined by Form

A bezel setting surrounds the edge of a stone with a fine rim of metal, creating a smooth, defined silhouette. Rather than using individual claws, the metal frames the stone, allowing the setting itself to become part of the visual identity of the piece.

The result is clean, considered and architectural. On rings, a bezel setting creates a beautifully streamlined profile, while on pendants it can give a gemstone a sculptural quality.

The Relique and Aion necklace collections both explore this approach, framing diamonds within the pendant to create refined silhouettes where the relationship between stone and gold is central to the design.

 

ruusk bezel set necklaces

 

Crown: Where Claw Meets Bezel

The Crown setting is RUUSK’s own considered interpretation of the relationship between claw and bezel.

It features the delicate claws of a traditional setting, but without the open gallery beneath the stone. Instead, the stone is framed by the surrounding gold, bringing together the openness and brilliance of a claw setting with the defined, considered structure of a bezel.

The result is a setting with its own distinctive character – refined, sculptural and beautifully considered, while still allowing the diamond to take centre stage.

Our Crown Round Solitaire brings the setting to the centre of an engagement ring, while the Crown setting extends across our Crown Tennis Necklace and Bracelet, creating a continuous rhythm of diamonds framed in solid gold.

 

ruusk crown set solitaire and tennis necklace and bracelet collection

 

Choosing the Right Setting

There is no single setting that is right for every piece. The choice comes down to the balance of light, form, structure and personal style you are drawn to. A claw setting celebrates openness and brilliance. A bezel creates a clean, architectural frame. The Crown setting brings the two together in a distinctly RUUSK expression.

Your lifestyle can also play a part in choosing the right setting. While claw settings offer an open, delicate look, they benefit from a little more care and consideration when worn day to day, whereas a bezel offers a more protected setting that can be particularly well suited to an active lifestyle.

Each is designed with the same intention: to create fine jewellery where the setting is not simply functional, but an essential part of the design. Thoughtfully considered, handcrafted in solid gold and made to be worn and treasured for years to come.

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